Knees hurt--Bike related

snowsprite · Post by **snowsprite** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:50

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Bling Skier · Post by **Bling Skier** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:52

Sounds like you need 2 adjust your seat hight.

andyzee · Post by **andyzee** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:53

It's called old age

plus the fact that it's your first time out. Give it a chance and don't push to hard next time, give the knees a chance to get used to the new sport. IMHO

snowsprite · Post by **snowsprite** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:54

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Pedro · Post by **Pedro** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:54

Your knees are probably not used to doing that sort of repetetive motion, my knees get jacked up if i start running or biking after a long lazy period.

andyzee · Post by **andyzee** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:54

Bling Skier wrote:Sounds like you need 2 adjust your seat hight.

That too. I see to many people with the wrong height, that could do a number on you.

Bling Skier · Post by **Bling Skier** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:55

BICYCLE SEAT HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

The following method of setting saddle height is not the only method around but it is the most popular among experienced coaches and riders in the US and Europe.

1) First adjust the saddle angle. It should be level or very close to level, with no more than 2mm slope up or down at the nose.

2) Put on the shoes you normally ride in. Don't forget to lightly grease the seat post and binder bolt. Have a binder bolt wrench ready (usually a 5mm Allen).

3) Mount the bike and sit comfortably, leaning against a wall. Apply a brake with one hand (or mount the bike on a turbo trainer).

4) Placing your HEELS on the pedals pedal backwards at 30+ rpm without rocking your pelvis (very important).

5) Adjust seat height so the gap between pedal and heel at bottom dead center is:

5A) ZERO TO ONE HALF CM. for recreational riders (-50 mi/wk.),

5B) ONE HALF TO ONE CM. for experienced riders (50+ mi./wk.),

5C) ONE HALF TO ONE AND ONE HALF CM. for endurance cyclists (250+ mi./wk.).

NOTE: Modify these recommendations if your soles are considerably thicker at the cleat than at the heel.

Though it can be difficult to make an accurate measurement without a mirror or friend to do a visual check of your heel and pedal at BDC, it is often easier to go by feel, raising the saddle by 2mm at a time as your heel begins slipping as the pedal traverses bottom dead center.

6) Ride. It may take a couple of rides to get used to the feel and possibly stretch the hamstrings and Achilles slightly. Bring a hex wrench and lower the saddle if it feels too high or doesn't begin to feel normal after a few dozen miles.

Bling Skier · Post by **Bling Skier** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:56

http://www.bicyclesource.com/bike/fitti ... ight.shtml

Bling Skier · Post by **Bling Skier** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:57

Sometimes cyclists tilt their saddles very slightly upwards, which helps the rider to put more of his weight on the saddle and less on the arms. Women riders will generally want as little weight as possible on the saddle, and many men find the upward tilt uncomfortable.

Bling Skier · Post by **Bling Skier** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:57

Saddle Position

The rails on a seat allow you to set it towards the front or rear, which is a complex and important optimisation. The position of the seat with respect to the handlebars and pedals make the main difference between the steep 74 degree seat tube of a racing bike and the 71 degree tube of a touring bike.

Moving your saddle back puts you in a lower posture, which is more aerodynamically efficient, allows you to use all of your leg muscles, and is better for your back and breathing in the exact same way as dropped handlebars. The best way to achieve this may be to lower your headset and get one which extends farther, however, as sliding the seat back can mess up your leg geometry. The farther forward your are, the more total power output you have available -- hence the steep seat-tube angle on racing or sprinting bikes -- and farther back allows you to "ankle" more effectively and is conducive to long-haul output.

One way to find the correct fore/aft position is when the knee is directly over the pedal spindle with the crank at the 3 o'clock position. Have a friend dangle a plumb line from just below your kneecap when at this position, and set you saddle forwards or backwards accordingly for the plumb to line up with the pedal spindle. This is generally the optimum position for exerting muscle power on the spindles.

Older riders generally prefer seats towards the back of the usual 1 3/4" to 2 1/2" range from the nose of the saddle to a vertical line through the crankset.

snowsprite · Post by **snowsprite** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:57

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Bling Skier · Post by **Bling Skier** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:58

Are Your Legs Symmetrical?

For almost everyone, you'll find that one leg is longer than the other. If the difference is as slight as a half centimeter you probably needn't worry, but at some point you'll want to make your bike fit. There are three major ways to adjust your bike.

If the difference is mostly in your thighs, you'll want to compensate in your crank length. It isn't easy or cheap to order an odd crank of a different size, but it will do the trick.

If your lower legs are different, the pedal cage height is the measurement to change. Shimano makes drop-center pedals, which can be fitted to some cranksets. The shorter leg uses a conventional pedal, possibly using a an adapter in the crankset.

Another option is to use orthopedic pedals set to different cage heights. France's T.A. makes a set, and a good bike shop can order them for you.

andyzee · Post by **andyzee** » Apr 21st, '05, 18:58

I find it usually takes a long time before you get the seat height just right. One suggestion, when you do, mark it.

Atomic1 · Post by **Atomic1** » Apr 21st, '05, 19:00

http://www.stakich.com/gfolder/glucosam ... C=standard

Bling Skier · Post by **Bling Skier** » Apr 21st, '05, 19:00

andyzee wrote:I find it usually takes a long time before you get the seat height just right. One suggestion, when you do, mark it.

I have 2 read the posts above an apply the advice 2 my own bike

just picked up a "Terry Zero" 4 the first 4 rides it felt like I was riding on a 2X4.....not good.....